JAFFA, Israel — In the land of the Bible, the Jaffa port is one of the oldest in the entire world, in near continuous operation for more than 4,000 years. Calcareous sandstone (kurkar) reefs create a natural breakwater and a safe haven for vessels at the far Eastern edge of the Mediterranean.
But this breezy and artsy enclave of South Tel Aviv is perhaps better known for the succulent fruit that became a staple crop for both European and Mediterranean export in the mid-1800s — the Shamouti orange, developed in the Jaffa orchards which became a mainstay of the city’s economy. Today, that fruit is best known a Jaffa orange. The fruit was such a revered export that the original steps — still in existence — built in the late Ottoman period to lower crates of the famous oranges onto ships for export are known as The Orange Steps.
From the mid-1800s until Word War I, subsidiary consulates of Great Britain, Germany, Greece, Persia and the United States, France, Austria and Spain, operated in Jaffa, clustered in the Christian quarter above the port. These consulates reported on the everyday happenings in Jaffa, and they intervened in its administration and protected the rights of foreign citizens.
Today, the city is a mix of Israelis and Arabs living together in relative harmony, with a vibrant lifestyle, a wealth of restaurants appealing to a variety of culinary tastes and some interesting boutique hotels.
The Market House Hotel, for one, is especially fascinating as it features a transparent window in the foyer floor which reveals the city’s glorious past in the archaeological remains of a Byzantine chapel from the eighth century A.D. Some rooms have a patio with views of the Mediterranean, as well as the iconic clock tower looming above the city’s famous flea market.
The eclectic waterfront affords a spectacular view of the bustling city of Tel Aviv a mile to the north, with its high rises and seaside hotels, as well as soft, khaki-colored sandy beaches, from its long promenade, which is filled with walkers and cyclists year-round. Airy, outdoor restaurants dot the strand, leading up to the oldest part of Jaffa.
For an authentic Middle Eastern meal, Abu Hassan has been called the most famous hummus restaurant in Tel Aviv-Yafo (Jaffa in Hebrew), with three locations throughout the area.
But it’s in Jaffa where Ali Karavan (better known as Abu Hassan) started selling hummus from a cart in 1959 and opened his first brick and mortar spot on Ha-Dolphin Street in Jaffa in 1972. The restaurant’s legendary “triple” dish, features hummus, foul and masabbacha, draws those with epicurean tastes from all over the world.
For worship, there are two Roman Catholic churches in Jaffa.
The St. Anthony of Padua Church, which was built in 1932, is dedicated to Anthony of Padua, a Portuguese Franciscan friar venerated as a saint and Doctor of the Church.
St. Peter Church is more dramatically perched on a hill built over Old Jaffa’s medieval citadel and overlooking the historic port. The Franciscan Catholic Church offers services in English, Spanish, Polish and Hebrew and attended primarily by members of the expat community and tourists.
Jaffa is fascinating in its own right and has much to offer any Holy Land tourist.
